Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Carrying on a Traditional Family Legacy: Bella's Italian Restaurant

Bright and early at seven o’clock on a typical morning, five Italian brothers wake up to begin their day prepping to serve Junction City customers delicious Italian food. Unlocking the doors to get inside the historic Rialto building, the Texas food service truck pulls into the alley dropping off boxes of fresh fruits, vegetables, seasonings and other food items so that they will be stocked, prepped and cooked for the upcoming week. With his hair gelled and combed in a slick cowlick, black slacks and a black polo, Li-Mi swaggers his way around the restaurant with the intellect of a chef and businessman.  He Checks every item in stock, budgetary items and even checks to see if a dish to see if it’s plated correctly before it is sent out to the customer, he nods his head, “Looks great”. Meanwhile, Di-bi, who is the younger brother, mops the lobby floors while Nick, the owner, graciously walks around to see if everything is going smoothly. While three active brothers are cleaning the restaurant and prepping for opening, Genci stands in the kitchen hunched over a cutting board and carefully begins to dice tomatoes that will soon go into a giant stockpot with other spices to become marinara sauce.
            As many of us think about Italian food, our minds start to think about garlic bread, spaghetti, pizza or pasta dishes that are garnished with a red sauce. We also begin to think about noble master chefs Mario Batali and Giada DeLaurentis, who are the leaders of Italian Cuisine. But as people begin to see Italian cuisine evolve on television into something unique and different, such as a polenta waffle with pancetta, chives, topped with two sunny side eggs with a side of maple syrup and béchamel sauce. Or perhaps we would often forget about learning the basics of Italian Cuisine, the history and how much it is always best to preserve an edible Italian legacy to citizens of many cultures.[1] “We are dedicated to serve Junction City with really good food.” Genci said with his bulky arms in a black polo.
              In a small military Kansas town filled with a diverse community, city officials have met together in hopes to bring “Change” into the community. With three restaurants and a coffee shop that had little successful business throughout the years inside the Rialto building, it was time to get rid of old business because Stevie’s, the former restaurant, had a tense shift in management, kitchen staff and ownership. As business slowed down, there became less money. With a lack of financial recovery, the restaurant finally closed in the winter of 2013. Soon, city officials met together with an Italian-American Texas family, owners and operators of a successful Italian-American Restaurant business, Bella’s Italian Restaurant.  

            Bella Veliu was the grandfather of the eight brothers who own and operate the Bella’s Italian Restaurants' throughout three states. Before migrating from the southern region of Italy, in the town of Sicily, Bella Veliu stands side by side with his mother, carefully slicing up fresh green basil, oregano, and juicy plum tomatoes while his stern mother flicks her wrist, pulls her hair into a bun and presses her hands into a risen flour dough that is set on the table about to be used for bread and pasta. She glances over at him to make sure he understands proper cooking technique. “Bella, cooking in Italy is tradition. I want you to continue on with your family”, She says as they’re fixing dinner together. As the years passed, he kept what she said in mind and eventually grew up to begin a family and continued to cook together in the kitchen. Later on at a middle age, Bella migrated to Brooklyn New York along with other European immigrants. As the ship approached the cold shores of America, many of the immigrants cheered to a life of new beginnings. “Cheers to a new life!!” he said. Arriving on Ellis Island, the fog was very thick and the clouds blocked the sun. Lady Liberty stood tall to show Bella that America was the melting pot of new opportunities. As he stood with his bags, he looks up at the statue while remembering the exact words his mothers said. “Checking into Bronx, New York, it was like a little Italy in American City.” He says. There would be days where the streets would smell like fresh baked bread, fresh fish from the harbor and sometimes molded mildew of the sewers. As Bella tried to make a way of living in America, he soon thought about the passionate times that were spent with his mother, cooking delicious and traditional Italian food. He invested his money in a small building with a kitchen and soon enough, he opens the first “Bella’s Italian Restaurant”.
            Without breaking a sweat, he combed his hair, puts on his black apron and flicked his wrist like his mother would do. Only this time, he would not only prep by chopping up vegetables, but would carefully take the right amount tomatoes, basil, garlic, oregano and olive oil and place it inside of a stockpot and let it cook for hours. As it cooked for hours, he would sprinkle a hint of sugar for the right amount of sweetness, and let it simmer to be used for fresh pasta and pizza. Meanwhile, as it cooked, he would take flour, salt, eggs and yeast, and would begin to form pizza dough. Carefully kneading the dough, he flattened it out with a perfect round shape, and placed chopped tomatoes and mozzarella cheese and drizzles it off with olive oil on the pizza. Soon, it’s placed in a brick oven so that it cooks.
            While cooking his passion away, he married a native Italian-American woman, and eventually has children. As his children would often watch and help him, they became interested in the tradition of Italian cooking. What we don’t know, is not only is Italian food a huge staple for American eaters, but cooking with family is a sacred Italian tradition. Bella made sure that it was very important for future generations. So as the years passed, times moved forward and things changed. This time, the third generation grandsons decided to move business down to Texas in the early 2000’s. Two locations were established in Bowe and Burkburnett. Nick, Genci, Di-bi, Li-Mi, along with a few other brothers, trained under the family name with the help of their elders and fathers. Soon, as technology started to advance, new ideas, recipes and communication started to take into affect. It was soon time to expand the business even more. Sitting in their back office of the restaurant in Bowie, Nick and Li-Mi were scheming up a plan. “Let’s look into Kansas!” Li-Mi said with his thick Brooklyn style Italian accent.
“Why Kansas?” said Nick.
[2]“Great small state. Not much Italian food exist. We begin in Salina.” As Li-Mi and Nick searched the map of Kansas, it was already shown that an Italian Restaurant existed in Wichita and Salina. “Perhaps even a smaller town without an Italian Restaurant” Li-Mi mentions. “Without any competitors, we show Junction City good Italian food providing we give best service to the customer.” While Nick nods his head, he soon agrees.
            As days went by, they talked with the Junction City area chamber of commerce and finalizations have officially begun. Leaving Stevie’s Restaurant closed for good, the building was slightly remodeled with a dark rustic interior of Italian art, plastic grapes, wine and olive oil bottles placed around the facility and new hard hickory tables are placed to bold the atmosphere. Black shielded tents drape over the old oak doors and windows with the words “Bella’s Italian Restaurant” written. Before getting the sense as if you’re in Little Italy, you can see the daily dishes written on the window: Veal, Chicken, Pizza, Seafood, Stromboli, Pasta and Pizza all written out in the red, white and green print along with the map of Italy to the side.  Lunch Specials for only $6.99 are advertised so that customers can get a sense of what to expect before dining in.
            While the restaurant is busy with the makeover, a bar is also staying in tact as it did when Stevie’s had ownership. The bar side has really changed over the years since 2004. Formerly, it was a small coffee shop, and before that, a Cajun restaurant named “Swampy’s”. The atmosphere was dark with tall old mirrors behind the wall. Five flat screen televisions that give customers a time to enjoy themselves while watching sports game and enjoying Italian Food at the same time. As word quickly grew out in Junction City, a ceremony took place and the ribbon was cut. Just like any other day, the moment you step right in Junction City’s historic Rialto building, you’ll most likely end up in a movie set of “The Godfather”. Finally, like any other day at 11:00, Bella’s Italian Restaurant opens.
            Greeted by Dibi, Li-Mi and Nick, they welcome you in with care and love. Dibi, taking the customer to the table, a look through the menu is the first thing to do. With so much to choose from between Pasta, Chicken, Seafood and Pizza, the dishes were something to get that was unique. Dibi took out his tablet and says “Everything made is fresh and not pre-cooked and frozen.” As I’m looking at the menu, I ordered Veal Parmigiana and Salmon Fettucine . “Good. One order of both coming right up.” Dibi said in his Italian accent. With Dibi swiffering his walk around the restaurant, he enters in the kitchen where Genci and the other brothers prepare the dishes. Genci first starts out by taking out fresh baked rolls out of the oven. He closes his eyes and takes one sniff as the steam enters his nose. Soon, with a stroke of a garlic buttered brush, he coats the top of the bread so that the garlic soaks right in, before they are ready to be eaten. After he places six rolls in a basket, he hands them to Dibi and walks over back to the table. [3]“On the house. Fresh Garlic Rolls to eat. Enjoy and your meal will be out shortly.” , he says. As a bite takes place, the inside of the bread was warm, fluffy and had a hint of garlic on top.  Shortly, the meals come out one by one. Placed in front of you was a medium white plate of white fettucine noodles topped with a grilled salmon smothered in a homemade, semi-sweet, cream Alfredo sauce. On the other plate, a small side of spaghetti is placed next to the giant veal cutlet, lightly fried to a golden brown topped with mozzarella cheese and both topped with Bella’s signature sweet tomato sauce. The moment a bite of intense flavor burst opens on your taste buds, you think to yourself, it’s not the sauce that makes it so special, but it’s the tradition, legacy and family bond between brothers, that makes it special. This establishment is known for bringing something that’s basic, good and delicious to the customers of Junction City. As I went along about the public opinion, I came to a realization of defense that true Italian food doesn’t have to be over exaggerated with the exotic flavors of Mario Batali and Giada, but true Italian food is symbolized with traditional recipes that will need to be continued and shared with love of the native homeland.
            As the day ends, closing time awaits. As the employees manage their way of closing, there’s so much work that needs to be done. While the day ends and Nick and Li-Mi count up the successful budget in the computer, they will wake up the next morning to head out to Texas, only to check upon the other Bella’s businesses. Soon, they go off to Italy to gain more knowledge about cooking in their family.  While they begin their journey, they hope to be an even greater success as they now have opened another restaurant in Manhattan, Kansas.




[1] Genci

[2] Li-Mi
[3] Di-bi

Monday, December 15, 2014

Pasta alla Carbonara

In America, you will most likely hear the term “chicken carbonara” being thrown around from sandwich subs to pizza. Often times, we would go to an eatery establishment and would think that it’s a seasoned Alfredo sauce with bacon pieces inside. To tell you the truth, it is NOT. According to Mario Batali, “A True carbonara has no cream.”

Carbonara is actually an Italian Pasta dish that dates back to the 20th century, from the state of Lazio just right along the eastern coast of Italy. Real preparation of this dish comes in the form of using four main ingredients, eggs, smoked pork, black pepper, and grated cheese. The pork is cooked in fat. The hot pasta is combined with the mixture of raw eggs, cheese and the fat of the pan. While many think that carbonara is a cream sauce, the real cream comes directly from the eggs, which is the base of the sauce.  Typically, bacon and pancetta is used in America due to the product being the number one cured pork product on the market, but traditionally, Guanciale, which is the Jowl, is most common in Italy. Outside of Italy, peas, mushrooms and other vegetables are often added, but it’s traditionally forbidden in the dish. The key to making the carbonara cream sauce is cooking it at a low temperature so that your egg mixture doesn’t curdle like scrambled eggs.

It was a slow day at work and thought I would give it a go, so I did. Here’s my recipe to Pasta alla Carbonara.

Ingredients
Salt
2 tablespoons of olive oil
8 large eggs
8 ounces of chopped Pork Jowl, Pancetta, or Bacon.
1 pound of spaghetti, or linguine.
½ cup of grated Parmigiann-Reggiano cheese
½ cup of grated Pecorino cheese
Freshly ground black pepper.

Bring a large pot of salt water to a boil over medium heat.

While the water is boiling, add olive oil to a large skillet over medium. Add your diced pork and cook until the fat is rendered and begins to color with a SLIGHT crisp. Turn off the heat and place it over a non-heated burner. DO NOT DRAIN THE FAT

While the pork is cooking, boil your pasta accordingly and cook it for about 6-7 minutes. Apparently, you would want to cook it one minute less than what it says on the package.

While the pasta is cooking, crack your eggs into a large bowl. Add your cheeses, salt and pepper, and whisk until it is well blended. Season again with more black pepper.

With the pasta almost finishing up, place the pan of pork on the setting of medium heat. Let it warm just a tad bit. Remove the pasta from the water, and toss it into the pan of pork so that the fat is coated on the pasta. After it is placed in the pan, stir it using a pair of tongs in a circular motion. Add your egg mixture and cook for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly until it looks more like a cream sauce. The key to not messing this dish up is letting it curdle like scrambled eggs. My tip would be to stir it while your pan is on a lower heat setting.