Bright and early at seven o’clock
on a typical morning, five Italian brothers wake up to begin their day prepping
to serve Junction City customers delicious Italian food. Unlocking the doors to
get inside the historic Rialto building, the Texas food service truck pulls
into the alley dropping off boxes of fresh fruits, vegetables, seasonings and
other food items so that they will be stocked, prepped and cooked for the
upcoming week. With his hair gelled and combed in a slick cowlick, black slacks
and a black polo, Li-Mi swaggers his way around the restaurant with the
intellect of a chef and businessman. He
Checks every item in stock, budgetary items and even checks to see if a dish to
see if it’s plated correctly before it is sent out to the customer, he nods his
head, “Looks great”. Meanwhile, Di-bi, who is the younger brother, mops the
lobby floors while Nick, the owner, graciously walks around to see if
everything is going smoothly. While three active brothers are cleaning the
restaurant and prepping for opening, Genci stands in the kitchen hunched over a
cutting board and carefully begins to dice tomatoes that will soon go into a
giant stockpot with other spices to become marinara sauce.
As
many of us think about Italian food, our minds start to think about garlic
bread, spaghetti, pizza or pasta dishes that are garnished with a red sauce. We
also begin to think about noble master chefs Mario Batali and Giada
DeLaurentis, who are the leaders of Italian Cuisine. But as people begin to see
Italian cuisine evolve on television into something unique and different, such
as a polenta waffle with pancetta, chives, topped with two sunny side eggs with
a side of maple syrup and béchamel sauce. Or perhaps we would often forget
about learning the basics of Italian Cuisine, the history and how much it is
always best to preserve an edible Italian legacy to citizens of many cultures.[1]
“We are dedicated to serve Junction City with really good food.” Genci said
with his bulky arms in a black polo.
In
a small military Kansas town filled with a diverse community, city officials
have met together in hopes to bring “Change” into the community. With three
restaurants and a coffee shop that had little successful business throughout
the years inside the Rialto building, it was time to get rid of old business
because Stevie’s, the former restaurant, had a tense shift in management,
kitchen staff and ownership. As business slowed down, there became less money.
With a lack of financial recovery, the restaurant finally closed in the winter
of 2013. Soon, city officials met together with an Italian-American Texas
family, owners and operators of a successful Italian-American Restaurant
business, Bella’s Italian Restaurant.
Bella
Veliu was the grandfather of the eight brothers who own and operate the Bella’s
Italian Restaurants' throughout three states. Before migrating from the southern
region of Italy, in the town of Sicily, Bella Veliu stands side by side with his
mother, carefully slicing up fresh green basil, oregano, and juicy plum
tomatoes while his stern mother flicks her wrist, pulls her hair into a bun and
presses her hands into a risen flour dough that is set on the table about to be
used for bread and pasta. She glances over at him to make sure he understands
proper cooking technique. “Bella, cooking in Italy is tradition. I want you to
continue on with your family”, She says as they’re fixing dinner together. As
the years passed, he kept what she said in mind and eventually grew up to begin
a family and continued to cook together in the kitchen. Later on at a middle
age, Bella migrated to Brooklyn New York along with other European immigrants.
As the ship approached the cold shores of America, many of the immigrants
cheered to a life of new beginnings. “Cheers to a new life!!” he said. Arriving
on Ellis Island, the fog was very thick and the clouds blocked the sun. Lady
Liberty stood tall to show Bella that America was the melting pot of new
opportunities. As he stood with his bags, he looks up at the statue while
remembering the exact words his mothers said. “Checking into Bronx, New York,
it was like a little Italy in American City.” He says. There would be days
where the streets would smell like fresh baked bread, fresh fish from the
harbor and sometimes molded mildew of the sewers. As Bella tried to make a way
of living in America, he soon thought about the passionate times that were
spent with his mother, cooking delicious and traditional Italian food. He
invested his money in a small building with a kitchen and soon enough, he opens
the first “Bella’s Italian Restaurant”.
Without
breaking a sweat, he combed his hair, puts on his black apron and flicked his wrist
like his mother would do. Only this time, he would not only prep by chopping up
vegetables, but would carefully take the right amount tomatoes, basil, garlic,
oregano and olive oil and place it inside of a stockpot and let it cook for
hours. As it cooked for hours, he would sprinkle a hint of sugar for the right
amount of sweetness, and let it simmer to be used for fresh pasta and pizza.
Meanwhile, as it cooked, he would take flour, salt, eggs and yeast, and would
begin to form pizza dough. Carefully kneading the dough, he flattened it out
with a perfect round shape, and placed chopped tomatoes and mozzarella cheese
and drizzles it off with olive oil on the pizza. Soon, it’s placed in a brick
oven so that it cooks.
While
cooking his passion away, he married a native Italian-American woman, and
eventually has children. As his children would often watch and help him, they
became interested in the tradition of Italian cooking. What we don’t know, is
not only is Italian food a huge staple for American eaters, but cooking with
family is a sacred Italian tradition. Bella made sure that it was very
important for future generations. So as the years passed, times moved forward
and things changed. This time, the third generation grandsons decided to move
business down to Texas in the early 2000’s. Two locations were established in
Bowe and Burkburnett. Nick, Genci, Di-bi, Li-Mi, along with a few other
brothers, trained under the family name with the help of their elders and
fathers. Soon, as technology started to advance, new ideas, recipes and
communication started to take into affect. It was soon time to expand the
business even more. Sitting in their back office of the restaurant in Bowie,
Nick and Li-Mi were scheming up a plan. “Let’s look into Kansas!” Li-Mi said
with his thick Brooklyn style Italian accent.
“Why Kansas?” said Nick.
[2]“Great
small state. Not much Italian food exist. We begin in Salina.” As Li-Mi and
Nick searched the map of Kansas, it was already shown that an Italian
Restaurant existed in Wichita and Salina. “Perhaps even a smaller town without
an Italian Restaurant” Li-Mi mentions. “Without any competitors, we show
Junction City good Italian food providing we give best service to the
customer.” While Nick nods his head, he soon agrees.
As
days went by, they talked with the Junction City area chamber of commerce and
finalizations have officially begun. Leaving Stevie’s Restaurant closed for
good, the building was slightly remodeled with a dark rustic interior of
Italian art, plastic grapes, wine and olive oil bottles placed around the
facility and new hard hickory tables are placed to bold the atmosphere. Black
shielded tents drape over the old oak doors and windows with the words “Bella’s
Italian Restaurant” written. Before getting the sense as if you’re in Little
Italy, you can see the daily dishes written on the window: Veal, Chicken,
Pizza, Seafood, Stromboli, Pasta and Pizza all written out in the red, white
and green print along with the map of Italy to the side. Lunch Specials for only $6.99 are advertised
so that customers can get a sense of what to expect before dining in.
While
the restaurant is busy with the makeover, a bar is also staying in tact as it
did when Stevie’s had ownership. The bar side has really changed over the years
since 2004. Formerly, it was a small coffee shop, and before that, a Cajun
restaurant named “Swampy’s”. The atmosphere was dark with tall old mirrors
behind the wall. Five flat screen televisions that give customers a time to
enjoy themselves while watching sports game and enjoying Italian Food at the
same time. As word quickly grew out in Junction City, a ceremony took place and
the ribbon was cut. Just like any other day, the moment you step right in Junction
City’s historic Rialto building, you’ll most likely end up in a movie set of
“The Godfather”. Finally, like any other day at 11:00, Bella’s Italian
Restaurant opens.
Greeted
by Dibi, Li-Mi and Nick, they welcome you in with care and love. Dibi, taking
the customer to the table, a look through the menu is the first thing to do. With
so much to choose from between Pasta, Chicken, Seafood and Pizza, the dishes
were something to get that was unique. Dibi took out his tablet and says
“Everything made is fresh and not pre-cooked and frozen.” As I’m looking at the
menu, I ordered Veal Parmigiana and Salmon Fettucine . “Good. One order of both
coming right up.” Dibi said in his Italian accent. With Dibi swiffering his walk
around the restaurant, he enters in the kitchen where Genci and the other
brothers prepare the dishes. Genci first starts out by taking out fresh baked
rolls out of the oven. He closes his eyes and takes one sniff as the steam
enters his nose. Soon, with a stroke of a garlic buttered brush, he coats the
top of the bread so that the garlic soaks right in, before they are ready to be
eaten. After he places six rolls in a basket, he hands them to Dibi and walks
over back to the table. [3]“On
the house. Fresh Garlic Rolls to eat. Enjoy and your meal will be out shortly.”
, he says. As a bite takes place, the inside of the bread was warm, fluffy and
had a hint of garlic on top. Shortly,
the meals come out one by one. Placed in front of you was a medium white plate
of white fettucine noodles topped with a grilled salmon smothered in a
homemade, semi-sweet, cream Alfredo sauce. On the other plate, a small side of
spaghetti is placed next to the giant veal cutlet, lightly fried to a golden
brown topped with mozzarella cheese and both topped with Bella’s signature
sweet tomato sauce. The moment a bite of intense flavor burst opens on your
taste buds, you think to yourself, it’s not the sauce that makes it so special,
but it’s the tradition, legacy and family bond between brothers, that makes it
special. This establishment is known for bringing something that’s basic, good
and delicious to the customers of Junction City. As I went along about the
public opinion, I came to a realization of defense that true Italian food
doesn’t have to be over exaggerated with the exotic flavors of Mario Batali and
Giada, but true Italian food is symbolized with traditional recipes that will
need to be continued and shared with love of the native homeland.
As
the day ends, closing time awaits. As the employees manage their way of
closing, there’s so much work that needs to be done. While the day ends and
Nick and Li-Mi count up the successful budget in the computer, they will wake
up the next morning to head out to Texas, only to check upon the other Bella’s
businesses. Soon, they go off to Italy to gain more knowledge about cooking in
their family. While they begin their
journey, they hope to be an even greater success as they now have opened
another restaurant in Manhattan, Kansas.
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